Bladder Stone in Rabbit

Bladder Stone / Slude ( Calculi )

Bladder Stone in Rabbit

Bladder or calcium stone and / or sludge can occur when a rabbit does not process calcium through the kidneys, which is ...

Descripton

The presence of calcium in the diet of rabbits is important because too little can cause tooth and bone problems. On the flipside, too much can cause a build up of calcium in the urinary tract and kidneys, which can then be formed into a bladder stone (or stones of calcium). Or, maybe not form stones but is present as calcium clogging the kidneys and bladder, the bladder, known as sludge.

Rabbit urine is usually slightly overcast and it is caused by calcium present in urine. There is nothing inherent in regulating physiological rabbit calcium intake; Therefore, the rabbit may often take advantage of calcium and produce through his urine. Diet alone does not cause bladder stones / sludge - some rabbits seem to tend to while in others it may be triggered by the following factors:

- Rabbits do not drink enough

- Rabbit not enough exercise

- Filthy living conditions

- Diseases of the kidneys or bladder

- A diet high in calcium

Bladder stones or sludge can be diagnosed by physical examination, urine analysis or X-rays.

Symptom

- Rabbits more frequent urination / in unusual places

- Rabbit trying to urinate

- Blood in the urine

- Urine is too pale, white and dirty, probably mud in the vicinity of the tail

- Fatigue, depression

- Loss of appetite

- Stone bladder may, on rare occasions, passed by the rabbits and found in the waste tray

Prevention / Treatment

Bladder stone treatment may involve surgery if the stone is not passable and block the urethra. For small stones and mud, treatments may include hydration (by droplets or by encouraging rabbits drinking), flushing of the bladder, pain relievers and antibiotics.

Treatment and, more importantly, prevention can also include dietary changes. Alfalfa hay, if fed, should be removed from the diet and had to switch from a mixture of rabbit pellet food, if applicable. Too little calcium can be as dangerous as too much, dark green vegetables, which is a natural source of calcium still have to eat.

New Zealand White Rabbit

New Zealand White

New Zealand White

New Zealand White rabbits were large, originally bred in the US for meat and fur trade. They are very quiet and tame rabbits.

Size: Large

Hair type: Medium

Origins

New Zealand White really came from the United States and raised in 1916 by a California farmer trying to develop valuable trade rabbit meat and fur. It is not known who gave birth to rabbits he uses but the name probably derived from wild rabbits New Zealand, and the texture and quality of hair suggest the use of angora. New Zealand White exported to Britain after World War II, where he became popular with farmers as well as laboratory rabbits. New Zealand Black and New Zealand Blue was developed in Britain but this disorder is much more common than native whites.

Appearance

New Zealand White rabbits are large with an average weight of 4-5 kg (9 - £ 12). 

New Zealand White  has a large building, a wide body with rounded thighs and short, powerful legs. The head is very spacious with full cheeks and thick, erect ears. 

New Zealand White  has a dense coat medium-long hair, soft undercoat with coarse guard hair.

Colour

White (red-eyed) is the most common, Black and broken pattern recognized in the United States, Blue is now uncommon.

Temperament

New Zealand Whites are very quiet and tame rabbits. With a very relaxed personality, they are usually very content to be handled and very good with children and other pets.

Temperament Problems in Rabbit

Temperament Problems

Territory of  Rabbit

Understanding the root causes of aggressive temperament in rabbits and how to overcome temperament problems ...

The key to understanding the temperament of rabbits is their nature as prey animals and adjust your temperament to them to enable this. Most of the "bad" temperament in the rabbit comes out of distrust or lack of human security in their environment and therefore can be overcome with time and patience. A rabbit can learn patterns of temperament at a young age but still taught something different at older ages.

Rabbits that have not been neutered or spayed are much more likely to have temperament problems, caused by sexual frustration and / or region. Many "problems" rabbit was cured only with de-sexing them.

Aggression

Aggression is generally caused by either a rabbit trying to defend its territory or its own but can also be caused by a lack of trust in humans assume that your rabbit will do something bad to it so responded first to warn you off with a growl or bite.

Lack of trust

It requires a lot of patience. Spend time with your rabbit at ground level, lying or sitting on the floor and let it get close to you in his own time. Flirting with pieces of food, talk to it in a soft voice low and avoid sudden movements. Let your rabbit become comfortable with just being close to you before attempting to touch or stroke it.

Territory

For example, a rabbit may growl or attack on your front foot as you try to clean his cage or litter tray, or if you enter the sleeping area. It is more common in female rabbits. Avoid entering the rabbits you when there is - put your rabbit in training or different when you clean the cage or litter tray

Defense

For example, rabbits can bite you if you try to clip her nails. Rabbit wrapped in old towels or blankets to restrict movement, this also makes the rabbit feel more secure.

Bossiness

Rabbits can be very bossy, especially rabbit home. It is as if they came from the belief that the whole house or flat is in them, Many rabbits will nibble your feet to move them out of the way of those who, although not a proper bite, can be painful. You may be able to train your rabbit out of it by making a high-pitched squeal every time they do it. Or take the easy route and just keep your feet on the street.

A rabbit can also bite the hands and feet when they want attention or food. Try not to reinforce this temperament by giving them what they want - not, gently push them away and wait half an hour or so before giving them a cuddle or some food. Keep eating routine also helps - your rabbit will quickly learn what meals are and if you avoid giving treats in between it should stop begging for food in between meals.

Destructive temperament

For example, biting furniture or carpets. This is not a temperament problem, it is a natural aspect of a rabbit and it was very difficult, if not impossible, to train the rabbit comes out of this. The best option is to give them more tempting toys to play with and destroy as bits of cardboard, paper, twigs, pine fruits, blankets and towels and always make sure that they have plenty of hay to eat

New Zealand Red Rabbit

New Zealand Red

New Zealand Red

New Zealand Red originated in the United States and grew up in California around 1910 as a commercial breeding for meat and fur trade. New Zealand Reds calm, relaxed and friendly rabbit.

Size: Large

Hair type: Medium

Origins

New Zealand Red originated in the United States and grew up in California around 1910 as a commercial breeding for meat and fur trade. It is unknown which breeds rabbits used but the name probably derived from wild rabbits New Zealand imports. It is likely that the color came from Belgium and that Rabbit Flemish Giant also has an influence.

Appearance

New Zealand Red is a big rabbit with an average weight of 3-4.5 kg (6 ½ - 10 lbs). 

New Zealand Reds have built media; ample body with slightly curved back, handsome head with full cheeks and ears erect. New Zealand rabbits have a medium-length hair feels rough and less soft than most breeds.

Colour

Red (a golden-red or deep russet colour)

Temperament

New Zealand Reds calm, relaxed and friendly rabbit. They are usually good with children and other pets, very relaxed about treated and rarely aggressive.

Accessories Available For Rabbit

Accessories For Rabbit

Rabbit Harness

There is a wide range of accessories available for rabbits including water bottles and bowls, food bowls, trays, straw, tunnels and toys, harnesses, control ...

Water bottle

Your rabbit should always have access to clean, fresh water. For rabbits kept in cages and cages, water bottles attached to the side of the cage is the best way to provide this. Choose a bottle with a ball valve to prevent dripping and change the water daily. Give the bottle scrub at least once a week to prevent bacteria forming. During the winter the water may freeze; You can also wrap it in some old stuff or buy a specially designed "bottles snuggle".

Water bowl

For house rabbits (no cage) the best option is a bowl of water but avoid using it in the cage and the cage because they tend to be contaminated with dirty bedding. Choose a heavy ceramic bowl that rabbits can not be easily reversed (sometimes a cat or a dog bowl better) and change the water once a day. Many rabbits prefer to drink from the bowl as more natural for them.

Food bowl

It is better to choose the weight bowl of rabbit can not reverse and you may want to have a bowl of dry food and one for fresh food. Rub the bowl at least once a week.

Hay rack

This prevents the straw becomes dirty, the rabbit was less inclined to eat. It can be attached to wire cages or enclosures.

Tunnel

There are many tunnels and "hide conclusion" in the market and this is good to give your rabbit a safe place to sleep and give a boost. The best natural fiber which is made of willow wood or straw compressed as a rabbit You can also nibble on them to good health and help prevent boredom.

Mats

If the mat is safe for rabbits to bite and very useful to cover the carpet that your rabbit might otherwise be inclined to bite.

Toys

For example, a stick, a ball or chew toy. It can be made of wood, fabric, plastic or metal. Again, the best natural fibers and avoid painted toys or those treated with dye.

Exercise Harnesses

There are two main types of harnesses are available - they are on a leash and those who like a jacket. They should fit tightly but with room for two fingers between the strap and the body of the rabbit. Do not use a collar on a rabbit; This can break their necks. Can utilize stress to the rabbit and it takes time to train them for it.

Carriers

A standard cat carrier works very well for the rabbit like made of plastic and is therefore not a problem if the rabbit urinating in it. If you have to, make sure it is large enough to fit the two of them so you can take them to the vet together. Cardboard box with air holes or operator of cardboard such as PDSA charity also found but the power will be reduced if the rabbit gets wet. Line carrier with a blanket, towel or newspaper and straw to prevent the rabbit slide around.